If your idea of paradise involves perfect limestone, easily accessible crags, and incredible scenery, Ulassai should be a top contender for your next climbing getaway. Here’s why.
Peak season is spring (March to May) and autumn (September to mid November), but at 775 meters above sea level, Ulassai is often several degrees cooler than other Sardinian climbing areas, making it one of the best summer climbing destinations on the island. Although the temps can reach the mid thirties on warmer days, it’s also common to need to put on an extra layer when belaying on cooler days. Winter also offers good climbing although rain can rule out climbing for days at a time.
With the exception of winter, which can be a bit quiet, it is easy to find climbing partners in Ulassai. Nannai Climbing Home attracts many solo traveller-climbers, and there is a local Whatsapp climbing group through which you can meet local and expat climbers elsewhere in the village.
The rock here is limestone, and while there are a dozen good trad routes in the mix, most lines are bolted single-pitch affairs. Varying from slightly slabby to moderately steep (There are few routes steeper than 15 degrees overhung), the rock offers climbers a range of fun features including pockets, edges, cracks and even a few tufas. Most crags are less than a 30-minute walk from town, and with crags facing every direction, it’s easy to chase the shade or seek out crags with a breeze on them. The bolting in Ulassai is safe and well-thought, with crags being maintained regularly by local climbers.
Of the 2000 routes around Ulassai, the vast majority are 6’s and 7’s, making Ulassai a great destination for the average climber. But there is a good selection of 8’s (up to 8c) for those who climb harder, as well as dozens of 5’s for those just getting into rock climbing. Another upside to climbing in Ulassai is that most crags offer a wide grade range with 8’s and 7’s being just a short distance from the 6’s and 5’s – great for groups with mixed abilities.
A 70-meter rope will bring you down safely from most climbs, although an 80 meter rope is nice to have in sectors like Su Casteddu, Bacilli or Scala Ussassa. Bolting is generous, so bring at least 16 quickdraws and gear needed to clean anchors. The chance of rock fall on these new routes is high, so it is advised to bring and wear a helmet.
The local guidebook covers Ulassai , Jerzu and Osini and costs €20. You can buy it in the local shops, bars and B&Bs and here at Nannai Climbing Home. Whenever a line is longer than 35 meters it is indicated in the guidebook. It is also worth noting that there are always new lines going up and the grades on these routes can be a bit subjective. Revenue from the guidebook goes towards local bolting.
Although you might not find the same range of gear as you would in your climbing store back home, you can buy much of what you need from Dirt Bags climbing shop right here in Ulassai. That includes chalk, rope, hardware, harnesses and helmets. Dirt Bags also rents a full set of climbing gear for two people for 35€/ a day.
Although climbing in Ulassai is reasonably safe, you should always follow your own judgement and take the steps necessary to avoid unnecessary risks. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport and climbers are responsible for managing the risks they take. Most accidents can be avoided by putting a knot in the end of the rope, performing partner checks and wearing a helmet.
Bolting in Ulassai is regulated, so you should always get in contact with someone at Nannai Climbing Home or Dirt Bags before you start bolting. We follow the highest standards when putting up new lines and only use Inox 316 bolts pure epoxy resin. Together with the townhall of Ulassai we are slowly updating the older routes. Much of the revenue generated by guidebook sales goes towards our rebolting efforts.
