Perched on the shoulder between two limestone massifs, the village of Ulassai looks out over a verdant and craggy landscape, but this is not just a playground for the adventurous. Steeped in ancient history, the surrounding area has long been home to people whose deep connection to the land has given them a strong sense of independence – a spirit that persists today and ties the present to their storied past.
Sardinia has three airports that connect the island to the rest of the world – Cagliari (115km), Olbia (180km) and Alghero (220km) – but if you plan to travel onwards to Ulassai by bus, you should fly to Cagliari. There are plenty of cheap flights throughout the year, but if you plan to visit in the summer holidays, we strongly advise you to book a flight well in advance.
Many visitors prefer to have their own vehicle in Sardinia, which means catching a ferry to Olbia, Porto Torres or Cagliari from one of several ports on the continent – from Italy (Genova, Livorno and Civitavecchia), France (Marseille, Nice, Toulon), Spain (Barcelona). While this can be a convenient option for some travellers, it is important to book well ahead.
If you plan to rely on public transport, Cagliari is the best option to fly to. There’s a train every 20 minutes from Cagliari airport to Cagliari bus station, and from there you can take a bus 8€ (3hrs 15mins) to Ulassai. The fastest buses leave at 11:00 and 14.00. There are buses that leave at other times but they take longer.
Although a car is useful for getting to the beach and the more distant crags, you don’t need your own transport if you are content with staying closer to town. It’s only a kilometer from one end of town to the other, and it takes less than 15 minutes to walk to the larger grocery store (The smaller store is less than 50 meters from Nannai). You can even walk to the Su Marmuri Cave if you don’t mind a bit of uphill.
Ulassai is also the hometown of the late Italian artist Maria Lai, whose work can be seen around town at the Stazione dell’ Arte. Besides showing the crockery, frames, ceramics, and canvases produced by Lai, the art museum also organises workshops and artistic events that include other disciplines like music and theatre. The ticket price includes a guided tour.
Sardinia is known for its pristine beaches, and the province of Ogliastra is no different. With its pure white pebbles, turquoise waters, and unspoiled surroundings, Cala Goloritzè is not just a pretty beach but also a national monument – requiring a permit to access the beach (1 hour hike). Other great beaches include Torre di Barì beach with its rocky headland and Spanish tower, and Coccorocci with its gray, pink and green shingles.
The hills around Ulassai are riddled with caves and narrow passages, but there is one cave that stands out amongst them all: Grotta su Marmuri is not only the biggest cave in Sardinia but one of the most impressive caves in Europe with hundreds of stalagmites hanging from its roofs. To enter the cave, you will have to join a tour, but these start several times a day.
The surrounding tacchi (flat-topped limestone karsts) are crisscrossed with trails that just beg to be explored. Most of these are marked with the red and white blazes commonly used to mark trails in Italy, but many more are unmarked and require some routefinding. There is also a via ferrata on Mont Tisiddu for those who have the requisite gear and experience.
There is an active highlining community in the area, and in season it’s common to see a highline rigged across Canyon Sa Tappara (120m high and up to 500m at its widest). For those who want to practice their skills closer to the ground, it is also possible to rig a slackline set up in the grassy piazza above the village.
There are several restaurants in town, including the pizzeria Battista, the restobar Ferro & Fuoco, and Fico, the Bistro downstairs from Nannai. There is also a popular restaurant at the Su Marmuri Cave and a good pizzeria in Osini if you are prepared to go a little further afield. Prices are typical of Sardinia, and you can expect to pay 12 to 25 euros for a meal with a few drinks.
There are three grocery stores in Ulassai, with Conad (15 minute walk) being the largest and having the largest range. The closest store, although smaller, has a selection of veg, processed meat, dairy and baked goods and is less than 50 meters from Nannai.
